Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby 25 Tension, Thread Portioning, Deluxe Stitch System

Husqvarna Viking Designer Ruby 25 Tension, Thread Portioning, Deluxe Stitch System


When it’s time to talk tension, this is the
one that people kind of get hung up on. Do I need to adjust my tension? What should it
look like? When you’re using the same weight of thread in your needle as you do in the
bobbin, you’re probably good to go. On a straight stitch, we have the picture right here, that
says 4.6 for tension. Should I have any stitches that are pulling to the top side, that makes
this too tight. This tension is only adjust top thread. If it’s too tight, we would reduce
it down to a smaller number. If you just touch it 1 time, a 4.6 down to
4.4 is not going to change anything visibly. Go ahead and change it. I always say a whole
number’s worth, or a good amount. If I take it down to 3.6, it is now a red 3.6, indicating
I changed it. Now that will make the bobbin thread tighter because this is looser, kind
of like a scale. If you make want lighter, than another one gets tighter. Depending on which way you need to go, you
can always adjust it. Now to reset that, one easy way to do it, is just to re-select your
straight stitch or the stitch you’re on. That takes you back to the black normal setting
of the tension. Now, on this machine, you have the deluxe stitch system or thread portioning
option. What it’s going to do is I’m going to pick a zig-zag, you’ll notice your tension
symbol changes to a different looking symbol. This symbol here is just like what you see
on the front of your machine. If you want to actually see what this is, it’s pretty
cool, lift up on the bottom part. This part comes up, a little hook will hook back in
and lower back down. Inside here, your thread is sitting between 3 rollers. The thread and
machine can actually be sensed to give you just the right amount of thread to get balance
for the stitch you’re using. If you’re using any of those odd ball threads in your needle
or even in your bobbin, this machine is going to take care of it for you. If you need to adjust it up or down, same
thing, it would make it tighter or looser. If it was pulling too much bobbin thread up,
we’re going to loosen it down. Notice it’ll jump down by 5 numbers worth. If you need
it looser, just kind of come down from 50 to 40 or 35 and it will actually do the work
for you. The idea is that you always have your thread kind of balanced in the middle
of your 2 fabrics. For example, if we go ahead and select a button
hole, when we select stitch #1, you’re going to notice it jumps over to the thread portioning,
but it’s actually perfectly balanced for that satin stitch to get a better result. Those
threads will naturally pull to the back side, which is pretty cool in my book. It really
doesn’t have a lot of … Unless you’re really working with 2 different rates of thread,
I don’t really have to change this a whole lot. There is a place in your ruby menu and
in the set menu, that if you go over to the sewing machine, you can go into the tension
and portioning compensations. If you’re always noticing you have to adjust
a little bit down, because of what you’re working with, because every stitch you choose
will have its own default setting, you can go into the global setting of the machine
and reduce it to decrease it or increase it for the tension or the thread portioning system.
You don’t know what to do, you could probably just do it to both. That way it will make
sure it knows that no matter what stitch you choose to go ahead and automatically reduce
the top. What’s going to happen here there’s going to be a smaller number applied to that
top thread. Again, if you don’t way which way to turn
it, one’s going to make it worse and one’s going to make it better. If you go ahead and
tighten it and it gets worse, that means you just need to go the other way, loosening it.
Plus always means tighten. Minus always means loosen.

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