7 Ways on How to fix Shirring Problems (Tension, Stitch Length, Bobbin) || SHANiA DIY

7 Ways on How to fix Shirring Problems (Tension, Stitch Length, Bobbin) || SHANiA DIY


shir sure I feel like I’m not saying it
right but you get what I mean hey you guys it’s me Shania and I’m back again
with another video for you in today’s video I’m gonna be talking about seven
common shirring problems that usually happen when you try to shirr fabric and
ways that you can go about solving those problems so let’s get into it you want to
make sure that your spacing is even when you are shirring your fabric because if
your spacing is not even when you have finished shirring your fabric your fabric
is just gonna look completely like womp womp womp there are actually two ways to go about it so
the easy way first is to just kind of use the edge of your presser foot as the
guide so you will first start by drawing one line where you want your first row
of shirring to be and then you will put your needle down and you will shirr
along this line that you just drew out on your fabric once you have finished
this row then you will line up this row along the edge of your presser foot and
that is what will allow you to create a straight line because the edge of your
presser foot is already following that straight line so every line that you
line up against your presser foot will be straight to continue with the even
spacing then you would just always line up the previous row of shirring to the
edge of the presser foot now if you are not very good with like sewing straight
lines or if you’re a beginner I definitely recommend that you go slow
and you take your time because you do not want to you don’t want to have a
product that you’re gonna be like unhappy with the second option is
to just hand draw some straight lines that are equal distance apart and then
follow the lines when you sew but this takes a lot more time and ain’t nobody
got time for that I’m made the mistake of not keeping my fabric flat from the
beginning and that’s a keyword from the beginning because if you make a mistake
of not holding your fabric flat underneath the presser foot while you’re
sewing from the beginning then every like consecutive row of shirring that you
do is going to be creased because that crease it starts from the beginning and then
you’ve basically sewn it down into place so it just continues throughout the rest
of the garment of the fabric I hope that makes sense
so if you don’t want any more creases fix it from the beginning let’s say you
finish shirring your garment and you’re like dang this doesn’t seem like it’s
all that stretchy like I thought it was going to be a bit more gathered than
what it is an easy fix to this problem is to grab an iron and put it on
the steam setting and just lightly press your garment place your iron up and down
in different areas along the garment and that will help to kind of like shrink it
even more so the humidity of the heat and the water together will help to
further shrink your fabric you want to hand wind your bobbin
because if you you know use the machine to wind the bobbin it’s easier to go on
autopilot because your foot is down on the pedal you want to make sure that you
are not stretching the elastic when you are hand winding the bobbin if you do
that you will cause your tension to be too tight and contrary to this you want
to make sure that you’re not winding it too loosely because this will also
create a problem as well so the best way to think of it is to imagine that the
elastic is just regular thread that cannot be stretched so when you wind it
you also want to make sure that you are winding it evenly throughout the bobbin
you don’t want to just wind it at the top or the bottom you want to wind it at
the top the middle and the bottom of the bobbin ahhh a tongue-twister so just keep it
even and then also you want to make sure that you want to clip it through this
little groove here the way that you normally would with regular thread
nothing changes the only thing that changes is your hand winding it so in
order to make sure that you have the correct tension number you want to take
a piece of scrap fabric and you want to set your machine to the middle tension
number so my highest tension number is 8 so the middle number would be 4 and
you’re basically just going to sew a straight line and once you finish sewing
that straight line you’re just going to take a look at it and see how gathered
it looks now you might not notice anything because it’s the first row then
you’re gonna work your way up to the next number and you’re also gonna sew
another line and now you have two rows to compare so by this point you should
be able to flip over your fabric and you should be able to see some sort of
difference between the two tension dials so if you can see the second row it’s
starting to gather a little more then you can go up a number one number higher
and also sew another row and then just observe it and if you want you can go
one full number up or a half of a number up so here you can really see the
tension difference based on looking at a small section in each row and for each
small section on each row you can see that more fabric is being collected so
in the first row you have a bit of fabric being gathered and then the
second it’s even more fabric being gathered and then the third is even more
fabric being gathered and we know that it’s even more because we can see that
in that section it looks super tight so it looks super tight because more fabric
is being pinched or squeezed together which means that the tension is higher
and this is probably the better setting for you so start from the middle and
work your way up and you’ll find the best tension that way I suggest that you
make your stitch length a little longer than you normally would leave it for
your regular settings on my singer machine which by the way you can find a
link down below for my machine I usually leave my stitch length on anywhere
between like three and four when I’m shirring my fabric so the longer your
stitch length is the more fabric that is gathered per stitch so if you see in the
first row just a little bit of fabric would be taken up whereas in the second
row much more fabric would be taken up per each stitch here is a bonus tip because I love you guys so much and I’m always trying to give you more when you’re dealing with shirred fabric the best way to go about cleaning it and caring for it
is by hand washing it the reason why it’s better is just because the
machine can sometimes really take a toll on the fabric so hand washing it really
adds like a sort of extra care to the garment it’s best to shirr fabric that
is light weight if you try to share your fabric that’s
like a heavier weight like corduroy or like a heavy type of denim or heavy kind
of canvas it’ll be harder to shirr it because the fabric is so heavy and so
hard it’s less flexible so if you you’re trying to shirr something I definitely
suggest you use a lightweight fabric like cotton or linen or seersucker which
is what I used in my DIY shirred crop top
not that I’ve mentioned it before before I get into the final tip if you are
enjoying this video so far go ahead and hit subscribe and hit the bell then
definitely hit the like button check out my other video right here that deals
with how to hem stretchy fabric so that it’s not all like wavy and puckery so
that it lays flat alright so for that last tip be patient
there it is dynamite be patient so sometimes it takes about four rows
before you really start getting that full effect of the shirring so just be
patient and if you don’t believe me again whip out that test strip of fabric
and do like three or four rows or maybe five and you’ll start to see what I mean
thank you guys so much for watching I appreciate your time and I hope that you
will stay tuned and watch more of my videos and share them with your friends
and your family and anybody that you think would really get a kick out of it
so until next time ciao

9 Replies to “7 Ways on How to fix Shirring Problems (Tension, Stitch Length, Bobbin) || SHANiA DIY”

  1. My elastic thread won't come through the bobbin case. The elastic is too thick to go through the bobbin case guides. What am I doing wrong? I have even tried to loosen the tension of the bobbin case – even different machines. Still it wont pull through

  2. This is a great video, very informative and straightforward for anyone trying shirring for the first time. Watch this before you even start to minimize headaches.
    😁

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